Tuning an instrument used to be a skill that took a long time to develop. Today, most musicians use either electronic or – if they’re purists – by-ear tuning devices that sound the initial note which they’re trying to match. The most famous tuning device, of course, is the tuning fork. This device sounds a known frequency-usually A-440 in the case of tuning devices-that allows the musician to tune one string to that frequency and then the others by comparing their tone to that string. There are many new options, however.

Though it’s not technologically new, the pitch pipe is a great device for those who like their ukulele tuners simple. There are no batteries required, though you will have to have a developed ear to use the device. As a tip, you can oftentimes hear dissonance between the string and the pipe if you sound them simultaneously. This is one of the easier ways to tune the instrument. You should also be able to hear this dissonance if you sing the note. Use the pitch pipe to find your pitch and hum or sing the note, stopping when they sound in perfect harmony.

Electronic ukulele tuners, however, are more or less the norm today. These devices are very sensitive and very accurate. They usually have a needle or an LED readout that tells you when your string is zeroed-in on the correct pitch. Interestingly, instruments still usually sound better when they’re tuned to themselves. Many musicians use their electronic tuner to tune one string and then tune the rest of the instrument relative to that tuned string. This oftentimes gives a better tuning than doing each and every string based on the tuning device, even though it is technically less accurate where pitch is concerned.

There are even ukulele tuners available online for free. These are usually designed in one of the many simple programming languages that allow fast and useful web applications. These work much like any electronic tuner, allowing you to zero-in on the right pitch by using a needle-style indicator, or another easy-to-read gauge. These tuners are a great resource in a pinch. Obviously, if you plan on performing or travelling from place to place, you’ll want something to fit into your ukulele case. Most electronic tuners are not only very inexpensive, but are also very small and will easily fit.

Introduction

In the past, ukuleles were not taken seriously as being a real instrument, but rather as a toy instrument. Today most manufactures are making high quality ukuleles that result in higher prices. One factor in the higher prices is the type of finish used on the body of the ukulele. A satin finish is less labor intensive than glossy finish. Each has their own characteristics and when properly applied will protect the ukulele without adversely changing the overall tone and volume of the instrument.

Difference Between Satin and Gloss Finishes

A satin or low sheen finish will tend to absorb light rather than reflect light. This finish has a matte or soft appearance making them attractive to people that like the natural or classical look. A satin finish is easy to apply and lowers the overall cost of the ukulele. With a satin finish, the polyurethane finish is lightly sprayed on and dried without buffing. When ukuleles first appeared in the early 1900′s, they all had a stain finish since this was the only finish available.

Unlike a satin finish, a glossy or high sheen finish will tend to reflect light that will lend to a bright and mirror like appearance. This finish will emphasize the color and grain patterns of the wood. However, a glossy finish is more expensive since it requires more work to achieve the glossy appearance. With a glossy finish, the finish is lightly sprayed on and then polished and buffed to a mirror like appearance.

The better quality ukuleles have their finishes sprayed as compared to brushed. A sprayed finish is composed of various chemical compounds that add strength to the instrument. Both satin and gloss finishes will produce excellent tone and volume.

Proper Care and Maintenance

Proper care and maintenance is very important in the appearance of the ukulele. Be careful of picks and try not to scratch the ukulele with your fingernails. If possible, have a clean polishing cloth handy to keep the finish nice and shinny.

For a satin finish clean the surface with a soft 100% cotton cloth. Avoid using a guitar polish since this can create glossy areas that will contrast with the rest of the satin finish. With its low sheen, a satin finish is easier to maintain since it will not show scratches, dents and general wear and tear as in a glossy finish.

For a glossy finish again use a 100% cotton cloth and quality guitar polish. Follow the instructions and you should be quite pleased with the appearance of your ukulele. Try not to polish too frequently, since this may cause a cloudy or murky look over time. Keep in mind that a glossy finish is harder to maintain since it will show dust, dirt and scratches far more than a satin finish.

Conclusion

When applied properly, the choice of finish should not affect the overall tone and volume of the ukulele. Satin finish is less labor extensive and lends to the classical ukulele appearance. Glossy finish is more labor extensive but makes the ukulele appear more elegant. There is a debate amongst musicians on which finish is better when it comes to the overall sound quality of the ukulele. The important thing is this. Find an instrument that you find appealing and will enjoy playing and do not fuss about the finish. Having a ukulele that sounds good and is fun to play is far more important than the finish.

When most people think of the ukulele, they picture someone strumming gently to accompany their singing. Something slow and soothing. But the ukulele is capable of a great deal more than that. Some players really push what the ukulele can do as a solo instrument, playing melody and chords on just the four strings of the ukulele. Here are some of the pieces you need to hear if you think the ukulele isn’t a real instrument.

While My Guitar Gently Weeps – Jake Shimabukuro

Jake Shimabukuro performed his rendition of The Beatles’ While My Guitar Gently Weeps for the website Midnight Ukulele Disco. From there, it ended up on YouTube and became a viral sensation. Jake Shimabukuro, from Hawaii, has since become the most famous ukulele player in the world and played this piece again Conan O’Brian and Carson Daily’s shows. Conan O’Brian even went so far as to call it his favourite performance ever.

Down Rideau Canal – James Hill

James Hill is, without doubt, the best ukulele player in the world today. He comes from Canada and, though you might not think it, Canada has one of the world’s biggest ukulele scenes (matched only by Hawaii). Down Rideau Canal is a tune James wrote about skating on Rideau Canal and it’s a tour de force of ukulele strumming and techniques.

William Tell Overture – Andy Eastwood

Andy Eastwood comes from a very different school of ukulele playing. He is British and his playing is very much part of the British tradition of ukulele playing including, most famously, George Formby. He doesn’t play a traditional ukulele but a banjolele (a cross between a banjo and a ukulele). His solo ukulele version of Rossini’s William Tell Overture is a breathless race through the tune with one of the wildest and most flamboyant outros you’ll ever hear.

Stars and Stripes Forever – Jesse Kalima

Jesse Kalima started performing Stars and Stripes Forever in the mid-30s when Hawaii was bidding to become on of the United States of America. He used this tune to win the Hawaii Amateur Ukulele Championship in 1935 and went on to become one of the innovators of solo ukulele. He was one of the first people to show what the ukulele is capable of as a solo instrument.

So, if you ever doubt what the ukulele is capable of, track down these tunes and have it proved to you otherwise.

Of all the ukulele manufacturers in the world, there is none whose instruments are as common as the Mahalo ukulele brand. This brand is produced by Saga Musical Instruments and encompasses a wide range of choices. These ukuleles are popular with beginners as they’re not too expensive but their quality is good. The instruments are excellent choices for school music programs, casual players and those who want an instrument that can be played seriously without spending hundreds of dollars on it. They also have some options that make them genuinely fun to own and to play.

A Mahalo ukulele does have the advantage of being inexpensive. One of the greatest things about these instruments is how portable they truly are. They weigh nothing, can be fit in most camping backpacks and, obviously, require no amplification. The expensive models of ukuleles, however, are put at too great a risk by such handling and, due their high prices, don’t really let their owners have as much fun as they could with a cheaper ukulele under their arm or in their backpack. In fact, this company also makes an effort to make sure that your ukulele will stand out, whether it’s in its case or not.

Mahalo ukulele options include a variety of colors. These include everything from mellow and classy blues to the brightest pinks and purples. There are also cases available that match the color of the instrument, offering an additional kick to the visual effect. Of course, because these instruments are not made of the most expensive woods in the world, it makes sense to go ahead and decorate them with colorful paintjobs. In many ways, while serious ukulele music is refreshing to hear, the instrument does have a lot to offer players in the way of simple fun and can be a great diversion in that regard.

You can pick up a Mahalo ukulele most anywhere you can pick up any instrument. There are none which are so widespread. These instruments do come with a host of options, however. If you want to enjoy playing the greatest range of sound, consider getting a ukulele with a cutaway body. This allows you to access those highest frets without arching your hand, and is a feature on many of the offerings of the Mahalo Brand. There are also models available in all of the traditional voices of ukulele.

Of all the sizes of ukulele, the concert ukulele is often the most overlooked. The terms for the other sizes of ukulele are familiar to other people: soprano, tenor and baritone. But concert is slightly different.

The two most common size of ukulele for people to play are tenor and soprano. Each of these offers players their own advantages and disadvantages. But the concert offers players the perfect compromise between these two.

Concert Ukulele: Definition

Like all the ukulele classifications, the concert ukulele is defined by its scale length (i.e. the playable length of its strings). It has a scale length of around fifteen inches. This places it exactly in the middle of the soprano ukulele (with a scale length of thirteen inches) and the tenor (with a scale length of seventeen inches).

What’s Good About the Concert Size Uke?

The concert ukulele should bring you what most people love about the soprano and tenors all in one package. You get an extra bit of room for your fingers to maneuver; allowing you to play more complex single note parts (as with the tenor). And you also get the traditional ukulele sound of the soprano and it is as natural as the soprano when it comes to chord playing.

The adaptability is the major appeal of the concert ukulele for me. It allows me to switch between fingerstyle and strummed sections of a particular piece without losing anything in the move in terms of sound and playability.

If you have tried playing a soprano ukulele but found you need a little more space – as many people do – then the concert ukulele should be your next stop.

What are the Disadvantages of the Concert Ukulele?

There are some downsides to the concert ukulele. They tend not to be as available as tenors and certainly not sopranos. This means you are likely to have less choice when you buy than you might with the other sizes.

Another is the price. In the beginner price bracket, you won’t find too many concert ukuleles.

Should I Get a Concert Ukulele?

Concert ukuleles are great for intermediate players who want to stretch out their ukulele playing and take on new challenges. Moving their playing into new areas and taking on lead parts but still retaining the traditional sound of the ukulele.

The ukulele is usually regarded as a very simple instrument. So buying one would be easy, right? That’s not the case. Visit a good music store or browse the net and you’ll be overwhelmed with the choice. As well as different brands and styles of ukulele they come in a number of different sizes. This article will give you a better idea of which is right for you.

Ukuleles are divided according to their size. There are four main classifications: soprano, concert, tenor and baritone.

Soprano Ukulele

The soprano ukulele is the smallest size of ukulele (21 inches from top to tail). It’s is the classic size of ukulele. The one most people think of when you they think of a ukulele.

A soprano ukulele gives you the sound most associated with the ukulele. Some hardcore ukers regard it as the only true ukulele. If you want the 20s and 30s sound, choose a soprano.

The soprano, being so small, is the perfect instrument for a child. Another advantage of the soprano is the price. The cheapest ukuleles around are always sopranos.

Concert Ukulele

The concert ukulele is the next up in size with a length of around 23 inches.

Being slightly larger, the concert ukulele gives your fingers more space to move – making it easier to play. But it’s close enough in size to a soprano ukulele to retain the distinctive sound.

The concert ukulele is the compromise candidate and is my favorite size of ukulele.

Tenor Ukulele

Tenor ukuleles are larger still, around 26 inches in length.

Tenor ukuleles tend to be the choice of professional ukulele players such as Jake Shimabukuro. Their greater size gives the fingers plenty of room for ukulele pyrotechnics. They also have the advantage of being louder than soprano and concert ukuleles.

I tend to pick up my tenor ukulele when I’m performing a solo ukulele piece – particularly if I’m playing in front of a small group of people.

Baritone Ukulele

The baritone ukulele is much larger than the other sizes (at 30 inches) and is tuned differently. Rather than being tuned like a ukulele, its strings are tuned the same as the top four strings of the guitar. This means it sounds much more like a guitar than it does a ukulele (much deeper than a ukulele). Many ukulele players don’t even regard baritone ukuleles as ukuleles but tenor guitars.

Baritone ukuleles are a good choice for people looking to move on to playing guitar.

My advice for first time ukulele buyers is to get yourself a relatively cheap soprano ukulele. This will give you a feel for the instrument and you’ll find out whether you want to invest more in a serious instrument and will also give you an idea of what size will suit your playing style. Whichever you start out with, it’s almost inevitable you’ll become a ukulele addict and end up buying at least one of each size.

You’ve just purchased a set of guitar plans and are ready to get started building your guitar. But you don’t want to cut or damage your original paper plans to build the templates. What do you do?

Yes, you can easily make extra copies by going to a copy store but some of those drawings have copyrights attached to them, and we do not want to infringe on those laws. This simple yet traditional procedure of making templates will work in any situation you are in and in your own shop.

Materials You Will Need – Here are the things you will need to create the template. You probably already have them on hand.

A pair of scissors or hobby knife for cutting
Charcoal pencil or colored chalk for carbon copy
Masking tape
A pencil to trace and mark
Template material like thin cardboard or a thick poster board.

Step 1 – Prepare to transfer the guitar shape to the poster board. This technique is called making a carbon copy. Take the guitar plans and place it face down over a white surface on a table, if you can not see the lines clearly then take the plans and put it face down on a lighted background. This can be on a lighted table or against a window in you shop during the day. The point is that you want to clearly see the lines on the front when looking at the backside of the plans.

Step 2 – Trace over the lines. Using the charcoal pencil or colored chalk begin to trace or mark over the line of the guitar shape and sound hole. This does not need to be pretty or precise just make sure it is thick in width and over the necessary lines. When you are done take a tissue paper and lightly wipe off the excess charcoal or chalk.

Step 3 – Now you are ready to make your carbon copy. Position the poster board (or thin cardboard) securely on a table. Then overlay it with the guitar plan with the charcoal side face down making contact to the poster board. Next, secure the guitar plan to the poster board with the masking tape. Begin easily tracing over the guitar shape and sound hole with your pencil. There is no need to press hard because the charcoal will transfer with just light pressure.

Step 4 – When you’re done tracing over the guitar outline, gently remove the tape and lift the plan away from the poster board. Now that the outline is visible on the poster board, take a minute to darken the line with your pencil.

Step 5 – Now it is time to cut out your template. Using a pair of scissors or a hobby knife, cut out the shape of the guitar. Take time with your cutting to avoid any rough edges. Remember, this is your template, and you want it nice and smooth.

Your guitar template is now complete just repeat the process for the neck, bracing patterns, side panels, and other templates as you have need of them.

In this, the third part of the series on beginner ukulele chords, we’ll be taking a look at the G chord. This chord fits very well with the two chords we have looked at already in this series (C and F).

There are a huge number of songs that can be played with these three chords from blues songs like Crossroads by Robert Johnson, to punk classics such as The Clash’s Should I Stay or Should I Go to modern indie songs such as Noah and the Whale’s Five Years Time.

Playing G

The G chord is another step up in difficulty as it uses three fingers. First, put your third finger on the E string at fret 3. Then your second finger at fret 2 of the A string. And your first finger goes on fret 2 of the C string. You don’t need to fret the G string at all.

One problem beginners often have is that the E string sounds muffled. This is because the string is being prevented from ringing by one of their other fingers (most likely the ring finger is gently touching the string).

You want to arc your fingers higher above the fretboard to prevent this from happening.

In order to create this, shift your hand so that the tip of your thumb is against the middle of the fretboard. This will give you a better hand position making it easier to change chords as well as giving the chords a clearer sound.

When To Play A G Chord

The G chord fits great with the C and F chords we’ve looked at already. It can quite often be found after these chords towards the end of the progression.

This is because it is a ‘high tension chord’ which will build a climax in your progression which will create a sound which is eager to return to the root chord (in this case C).

Now that we have gone through a selection of major chords, we’ll be moving on to the minor chords for the next part of our look at beginner ukulele chords.

Have you ever tried to play chords on an ukulele? Today I will show you how combine the most common chords to so called chord progressions that sound good.

The names of the chords we will play are dependent upon the tuning of the uke. In this ukulele lesson we will use the common tuning in C. This means that the first string of the ukukule is tuned to A. The first string of your uke is the bottom string when you play.

The second string is tuned to an E, the third string to C and the fourth string to G. All these notes can be found in the middle octave of a piano.

A chord progression consists of a series of chords played in a sequence. We will start with three common chords on ukulele. It will be the C-major chord, the F-major chord and the chord G7:

C: 04 03 02 31

F: 24 03 12 01

G7: 04 23 12 21

Every note to play in the chord is notated with two numbers. The first number tells you which fret to press down and the next number indicates the string. 31 for example means, press down the third fret on the first string. 04 means that you play the open fourth string, that is, without pressing down a fret.

The important skill when playing chords on an ukulele is to be able to change chords smoothly. To make it easier to change between chords i suggest the following:

1. Be careful how you finger the individual chords. For example, I suggest that you use your ring finger to press down the third fret of the chord C-major which will facilitate the movement from C to G7.

2. Take advantage of the fact that many chords share some notes. For example, when moving from F to G7 you can let your index finger remain on the first fret of the second string.

We will start to play an easy progression with the chords C and G7:

C / / / G7 / / / C / / / G7 / / /

To make it simple, strum once on every note name and then once using the same chord on every following slash.

When you move from the C chord to the G7 chord I suggest that you slide your left hand ring finger from the third to the second fret and then just add the index finger on the second string and middle finger on the third string. When you move back to the C chord again you just repeat this sequence the opposite way.

We will now add the F-major chord to make the following chord sequence:

C / / / G7 / / / F / / / G7 / / /

As you probably notice you you have the note 12 in common in the chords F and G7. That means that you can hold your index finger on this note as you change between the two chords making for a smoother chord change.

In the last chord sequence we will add the chord A-minor:

Am: 24 03 02 01

Here you have a very common chord progression:

C / Am / F / G7 / C / Am / F / G7 /

As you can see in this chord sequence you have one note in common in the A-minor chord and the F-major chord. I suggest that you keep your left hand middle finger down on the second fret on the fourth string as you move from Am to F.

As you learn the chords to a song on your ukulele it is very effective to practice the chord changes by concentrating on two chords at a time trying to move as effectively as possible between the chords.

These ukuleles were made by an independent luthier on the island of Hilo, David Hurd. The name Kawika is Hawaiian for David, who was an oceanographer prior to his career as a ukulele-builder. These instruments are hand-crafted, professional-quality ukuleles that are appropriate for concert performance. They are made of high-quality wood, sometimes koa wood and sometimes substitutions such as red cedar and other high-end woods. These ukuleles are no longer manufactured, though already existing examples can fetch good prices among professional players and those who want a quality instrument, whether or not they play particularly well.

The era from which the Kawika Ukulele originates, the 1990s, was one when there as a market increase in interest about this instrument. The instrument came in all the common variants. Though most people will be familiar with the sound of a tenor ukulele, there are different voices for this instrument, which allow performers to get exactly the instrument they need and, of course, which allows beginners to choose an instrument that truly interests them. These instruments also showcase the beauty of a hand-crafted ukulele. Imitations of these instruments may be available for $10 in tourist shops, but real ones are serious instruments, indeed.

A Kawika ukulele, like any hand-crafted instrument, is created with certain characteristics in mind. The woods selected, the ways in which those woods are cut and the means by which the instrument is fastened together all play significant roles in the end result of the instrument. These instruments are capable of good volume and a full-bodied sound, in contrast to the skewed impression that many people who have only heard cheap ukuleles have of the instrument. The lower voices of these ukuleles are rich and full, the higher voices project as a concert instrument should be expected to project.

The creator of the Kawika ukulele models was a scientist, and there is great precision found in the creation of these instruments. He also, however, considered it an art, as do most lutheirs. These ukuleles are appropriate for those who take the instrument rather seriously and who want a hand-crafted instrument with many traditional features. There are numerous types. The luthier himself has moved on to other things, having written a book about building the instruments recently. The original company name was Ukuleles by Kawika. The company is no longer available for repairs or for orders for new instruments.